If you like to save money, you’ll love the idea of rooting stem cuttings. And it’s pretty simple—find a straight species, an older cultivar or plant not under a patent, clip off a juvenile section of the plant’s stem, then coax roots to grow from it. Just think, you can clone as many examples of the mother plant as you wish for the cost of potting medium and a jar of rooting hormone.
“Because many plants root readily from cuttings, this is one of the most popular forms of plant propagation, especially for trees, shrubs and vines,” says Justin Hancock, horticulturist at Costa Farms. “Propagating with cuttings doesn’t usually interfere with the plants’ growth, and you don’t need to worry about pollinating a flower and waiting for the seeds to ripen—or digging up the plant to take root cuttings.”
Stem cuttings can be taken in spring, summer or fall, depending on the species. Pliable spring cuttings are called softwood cuttings. Semi-hardwood cuttings are a little more rigid and are gathered in late summer. Finally, hardwood cuttings are taken when plants are dormant in late fall or winter, stored for the cold months, then rooted the following spring. Check out the top 10 plants to grow from plant cuttings.
The benefits of rooting cuttings versus starting from seed? “It gives you an exact clone of the one you propagated from,” Justin says. “Seeds, because they’re a combination of the mother and father plants’ DNA, usually provide some variation.” Depending on the species, stem cuttings also give you a bigger plant, faster. You can also grow succulents from cuttings.
How to Root a Softwood Cutting
- Remove leaves from the bottom half of the stem. This reduces moisture loss while leaving some foliage for photosynthesis.
- Coat the base of the stem in rooting hormone to help stimulate root growth and reduce rot.
- Insert the bottom inch of stem with the rooting hormone into a premoistened mix of half peat moss and half vermiculite. Firmly tamp soil around the stem.
- Mist stem and leaves with a spray of water, then loosely place a clear plastic bag over the plant to increase humidity.
- Place the covered plant 6 inches below a fluorescent light. Remove the plastic cover and transplant when roots are coming out of drainage holes or pressing against the sides of the container.
Plants to Propagate by Cuttings
- Abelia
- Beauty bush (Kolkwitzia)
- Bittersweet (Celastrus)
- Cassiope
- Chaste tree (Vitex)
- Chocolate vine (Akebia)
- Cotoneaster
- Crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia)
- Deutzia
- Flowering quince (Chaenomeles)
- Fothergilla
- Heavenly bamboo (Nandina)
- Lantana
- Lavender
- Madagascar dragon tree (Dracaena marginata)
- Serviceberry (Amelanchier)
- Smokebush (Cotinus)
- St. John’s wort (Hypericum)
- Summersweet (Clethra)
- Plumbago
- Virginia sweetspire (Itea)
- Witch hazel (Hamamelis)
Right now everyone’s pretty well into Halloween mode, but we’re already thinking ahead to Thanksgiving. We’re making plans to watch the Macy’s parade and figuring out how to celebrate with family. (Not sure what’s safe on Thanksgiving? Here are the CDC guidelines.) Most of all, we’re figuring out what to serve on the most unusual “Turkey Day” in recent memory.
But of course, a Thanksgiving meal is only as good as the decorations surrounding it. That’s why you need a Thanksgiving cactus for this year’s holiday centerpiece. Yes, they’re real!
What Is a Thanksgiving Cactus?
You’ve probably heard of a Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii). But if you’ve ever encountered a Thanksgiving cactus, it’s probably because your Christmas cactus burst with glorious pink-red blooms too early. What you might not know is that those early bloomers are Thanksgiving cacti, and they’re a totally different species.
Thanksgiving cacti (Schlumbergera truncata) come in plenty of colors; pinkish-red seems to be the standard, but you can also find them in yellow or white. They do well in cool, shady climates (like the inside of your house) and require very little maintenance, which is awesome.
The main difference between Christmas and Thanksgiving cacti is the color of the pollen; although it’s worth noting Thanksgiving cacti have more pointed “teeth” on their stems. If you look closely at the pinkish flowers on the succulent, Thanksgiving cacti’s pollen stems are yellow, while Christmas cacti have white pollen.
By the way, we’re obsessed with succulent Christmas trees this year, too!
Where Can I Buy One?
If you’re looking to make your Thanksgiving even more festive with this pretty plant, you can find them at a variety of retailers. Etsy has several listings available, for everything from rooted cuttings to the whole plant—a search for “Thanksgiving cactus” brings up plenty of options. Amazon also has a Thanksgiving cactus, as well as several varieties of Christmas cacti.
Next, discover six fascinating facts about turkeys.
Daffodils, hyacinths, crocuses and tulips are welcome sights for the winter-weary. If you’ve ever looked at a swath of colorful spring bulbs with envy, plant a bed of your own. With this helpful guide to planting spring bulbs, it’s easy to do and completely foolproof!
When to Plant Spring Bulbs
Plant spring-flowering bulbs (scilla, allium, tulip, fritillary, hyacinth, crocus, snowdrop) the previous fall. This gives them time to adequately chill before rolling out their spectacular show months later. Plant spring-blooming bulbs too early and they won’t bloom; plant too late and they won’t take root and establish. Ideally, bulbs should be planted at least six weeks before the ground freezes, when temperatures are cool. In the upper Midwest, for instance, that could be from about late September through mid-November. Learn how to find the first and last frost dates.
Bulbs to Plant in Spring
Other types of bulbs, such as dahlias and gladiolus, bloom in summer. Dahlia bulbs need to be planted in spring and dug up before winter. Learn how to overwinter non-hardy bulbs.
How to Choose Spring Bulbs
When buying bulbs at your local garden center, give them a good once-over. Make sure they are firm—avoid bulbs with mushy or moldy spots. Choose the largest bulbs in the variety you’re after, as those tend to be reliable bloomers. For a more comprehensive selection, check the websites of online nurseries. Check out 7 sensational sources for flower bulbs.
How to Plant Spring Bulbs
Keep them organized
Once bulbs are removed from their packages, chances are you won’t be able to tell which is which. Keep them contained, labeled or sorted until you’re ready to plant.
Prepare the Soil
Break up any clumps, remove rocks and weeds, and improve drainage and overall quality by mixing in organic matter such as compost or peat moss. The easiest way to do this is to dig one large hole instead of several individual ones. Then mix in amendments all at once.
Dig deep
Check packaging for specific planting instructions. If unsure, dig a hole that’s two to three times deeper than the bulb’s height. For example, plant a 2-inch-high bulb about 6 inches deep. (Smaller bulbs need a hole only about 3 inches deep.) Many garden tools designed for this type of planting provide measurement markers. (Hint: Speaking of tools, a bulb auger is ideal if you plan to plant a bevy this fall.)
Plant a bulb pointy side up, roots down. But whatever side is up, it will most likely find its way through the soil in spring. Add compost, organic matter or slow-releasing fertilizer. After planting, tamp down the soil lightly. Give the freshly planted bulbs a good soak, cover with a couple of inches of mulch, and say sayonara until spring.
Keep Critters Out
Squirrels and mice love digging up and snacking on freshly planted bulbs. To prevent their free buffet, either grow animal-resistant bulbs or lay wire mesh over the beds, then stake or weigh it down with stones. Remove the mesh once you see shoots in spring.
Where to Plant Bulbs
Look around and take stock of your existing plants. Consider where bare spots appear in early spring (under trees, in annual beds, along walkways where perennials won’t make an appearance until later), and imagine how a bed of beautiful bulbs would brighten up those areas.
You can also use spring bulbs to edge early-season perennial beds and walkways. The blooms provide welcome color to areas of the yard that are just starting to show signs of life. An added bonus? If you plant them behind the perennials, emerging plants hide the spent bulb’s foliage as it fades.
Choose a planting spot that gets at least six hours of sunlight per day and be rewarded with healthy, long-lasting blooms. The area should also have good drainage. Bulbs don’t like wet feet, so avoid areas with soggy soil where rainwater gathers, such as the bottom of a slope.
Plan for about five bulbs per square foot. Make sure to also provide a little distance from established plants because bulbs are known to multiply.
Here’s how to create a year-round garden with plants for all seasons.
How to Create Beautiful Spring Bulb Displays
Cluster for Color
Mix and match spring-blooming bulbs as you wish, but resist the urge to include too many colors or varieties. Two to three will keep the look interesting and tasteful. Imagine drifts of orange-fringed tulips and grape hyacinths, or sweeping drifts of daffodils in varying hues mixed with pretty pansies.
If you don’t have a lot of space, group one or two varieties together to create maximum impact. Concentrating color in small spaces delivers the most bang for your buck. Think bright, contrasting color if you’re the adventurous type. Muted pastels offer something more elegant.
Check out the top 10 tulip bulbs to plant for spring color.
Use Succession Planting
Select a few varieties with different bloom times. Intermingling early-, mid- and late-season bloomers sets the stage for an entire season of showstopping color.
Consider Flower Height
Adopt the double-decker technique and plant small, earlier flowering types such as crocus or scilla on top of larger mid- to late-spring blooming bulbs—tulips, daffodils and alliums.
How to Force Bulbs to Bloom Indoors
Force bulbs to bloom early by storing them in the refrigerator eight to 16 weeks, depending on variety. Keep them away from fresh fruits and veggies, as their gases cause spoilage. Once they’re properly chilled, transfer to a container filled with good quality potting mix. Store the container in an unheated garage or cellar until new growth emerges. Keep them in a cool, bright location indoors to enjoy spring a bit early. Then move them to a sunny location outside where you can enjoy the view.
Frost can kill tender young plants early in the spring, and it can bring a sudden end to your harvest in fall. It’s important to know when to expect freezing temperatures so you can deal with the weather before it harms your plants.
What Is a Frost Date?
The Frost Date is actually shorthand for two dates: First Frost and Last Frost. These are the average dates when frost is first or last expected in a certain area. These are averages, not guarantees. But they can be helpful when determining planting times, and when planning a final harvest and fall cleanup.
When Is the First Frost Date?
The First Frost date usually occurs in fall, or sometimes late summer depending on how far north you live. It can differ from town to town based on geographical factors.
For instance, First Frost for Des Moines, Ia. is Oct. 12. But an hour north, First Frost is more than a week earlier. You can find your Frost Dates at your local cooperative extension website or by searching “frost dates” along with your town and state or zip code. The success of your fall and winter vegetables will depend on this date.
When Is the Last Frost Date?
The Last Frost date comes in spring and determines your planting dates. If you’re raising plants from seed, the seed packet will provide sowing instructions around those dates. Look for something like, “wait to sow seeds outdoors until danger of frost has passed,” which is the Last Frost date. If you sow seeds indoors, the seed packet will specify something like “Sow seeds six weeks before your average Last Frost date.”
What Can Be Planted Before the Last Frost?
Plants such as spinach, lettuce, kale and peas can be planted before the average Last Frost date of the season. In fact, they’ll do better in the cooler weather. Some gardeners start growing season early by providing protection for seedlings in spring, like using empty plastic milk jugs as miniature greenhouses. Summer vegetables and most herbs are planted outdoors after the Last Frost date.
Are There Any Plants That Can Survive a Freeze?
First, it pays to define what an actual freeze is. A frost is when ice crystals form on surfaces, generally between 32 and 36 degrees F. A light freeze is between 29 and 32 F, a hard freeze between 25 and 28 degrees F, and a killing freeze 24 F and below. Some vegetables can withstand a light freeze without protection, among them kale, Swiss chard, leaf lettuce, peas and spinach.
Will One Night of Frost Kill My Plants?
In most cases, the answer is a qualified yes. It’s qualified because a light freeze won’t kill your tender vegetables if you cover them. That’s why some commercial growers use plastic-covered hoop houses to extend the growing season for their vegetables.
In Iowa, for example, growers raising tomatoes in hoop houses can harvest into early December. Home gardeners can cover their sensitive plants with sheets anchored to the ground. Uncover in mid-morning once temperatures are well above freezing again.
You might find mold on houseplant soil after bringing your plants in for the winter, or it might grow in containers that are inside year-round. It can pop up on new additions to your urban garden, or it can appear on established members of your leafy collection. Mold occurs on soil for a number of reasons. Understanding what caused the problem and how to get rid of it will keep your garden and home happy.
“Most people don’t realize that plants have natural microorganisms that exist around them just like we have within our bodies and on our skin,” explains Shelby DeVore, a gardening expert with a master’s degree in agriculture and founder of Farminence. “Many of these microorganisms are necessary for proper plant health.”
This symbiotic relationship is why living soil is so favorable. To create living soil, many gardeners try to attract worms, which aerate soil and supply much-needed nutrients. Adding compost is another way to get those beneficial microorganisms. However, improper plant care can disturb the delicate balance of nature.
“When you start to notice mold emerging on the surface of the potting soil,” DeVore says, “there’s an issue.”
What Causes Mold Growth on Houseplant Soil?
Mold and other fungal diseases thrive in moist, dark and stuffy environments. Unfortunately, it’s easy to create those conditions, especially when gardening indoors. Try to avoid the following:
Overwatering
Fungus will consume any extra water lingering in a potted plant, and too much water can cause roots to rot. Houseplants usually require less water than their outdoor counterparts. While direct sunlight and wide-open spaces allow outdoor plants to dry out quickly, indirect sunlight and enclosed rooms within a home let plants retain water longer.
Poor Drainage
Poor water drainage can also lead to excess moisture. There are a few things that cause poor drainage: incorrect pot size, lack of drainage holes and dense soil.
Andrew Levi, founder and CEO of PlantTAGG, explains that proper pot size is key. “With roots exposed in an oversized pot, you’re more likely to see root rot as plants will be unable to use the amount of water that larger pots can hold,” he says. Measure your plant before purchasing a container. Or, better yet, bring it along to the garden store to see how it fits. Some plants are easier to grow in containers.
Many decorative pots come without drainage holes, which allow excess water to run through the soil and out of the pot. When they’re missing, all that moisture stays around the roots, where mold and fungus can use it. DeVore recommends containers with several drain holes that are 1/4-in. to 1/2-in. diameter.
If your soil is too dense, water will have trouble escaping. Potting mix is specially formulated for container gardening. It has lightweight peat moss and perlite, which help drain water. You can amend dense soil with plain peat moss, or just repot your plant in better potting mix.
Poor Air Circulation
Indoor plants don’t always get adequate air circulation, especially in the winter when windows are closed. Plants that are kept in dark corners or on cramped shelves are particularly susceptible to this issue. Air movement helps plants dry out between waterings.
Contaminated Soil
Your potting soil itself can cause mold problems. While soil should have some microorganisms, it’s possible for it to become contaminated before it even lands in a pot.
Desiree Thompson, gardener and plant expert at Gardening Services London, says to toss “any poorly stored compost and always keep your leftover soil in a dry place with holes properly sealed.” And always inspect your bag before potting a plant, for even a well-stored soil can absorb moisture when punctured.
Decomposing Leaves on Surface
Mold and other fungal infections feed on decomposing plant matter, so a buildup of dead leaves will encourage mold on soil. Remove dead pieces of the plant before they pile at its base. Fallen leaves can be used as mulch outside to reduce yard waste.
Will Moldy Soil Harm My Plant?
Mold on soil may or may not harm your plant. It depends on the type you’re dealing with.
Andrew Gaumond, horticulturist, botanist and director of content at Petal Republic, explains that “white mold is relatively harmless to the overall health of the plant,” while “fungal mycelia can be a real issue.” Although fuzzy, white mold on its soil may not hurt your houseplant, the conditions that allowed such mold growth will. And some molds and fungi do cause plant diseases.
Mold in the home may also be toxic to humans, or at least irritate those with asthma or allergies. So you’ll want to get rid of it right away for the sake of your plant and yourself.
How Do I Get Rid of the Mold on My Plant Soil?
Some gardeners swear by cinnamon as a natural anti-fungal. Simply wipe off the mold and sprinkle the spot with some cinnamon from your spice drawer.
If cinnamon doesn’t work, Gaumond says to try a houseplant fungicide spray or a homemade baking soda and water mixture. Test any solution on a small part of your plant to be sure it isn’t too strong. Once you’ve removed and treated the mold, it’s important to address what allowed mold growth in the first place. Find the root cause, then adjust your plant care accordingly.
How Can I Prevent New Mold from Growing?
Getting the right combination of sun, air, soil and water will keep the natural balance of your soil in check. Start by watering only when necessary. Many houseplants come with care instructions, but Levi says not to adhere to them. “Most plant tags that come with a plant provide care guidance for where the plant was grown, not necessarily your home/area,” he says.
Instead of watering on a rigid schedule, stick a finger a few inches into the soil to check its moisture level. Hydrospikes are another option for forgetful plant owners.
Avoid pots without drainage holes. If you fall in love with a decorative pot that doesn’t have holes, there are a few things you can try. One common solution is to add landscape rocks beneath the potting soil so that water has a place to pool. You can also try to drill holes into the pot, but clay or ceramic pieces may shatter. Be aware that these solutions are not guaranteed, so you may end up repotting your plant due to mold on its soil.
Finally, place your houseplant where it will get enough sunshine and air circulation. This means that tight spaces and forgotten corners might need fake plants. If an open window is out of the question, consider using a fan to mimic a natural breeze.
Next, check out 10 easy-to-grow houseplants all plant parents need.
Once the weather turns cold, it’s time to put out suet for your backyard birds. Suet is a great food for the winter months as it is a high energy food that is very valuable when temperatures drop. Here are a few of my favorite tips and tricks for feeding suet to your birds this winter.
Add Fruit and Nuts to Suet
Offer suet with peanuts or dried fruit mixed in. These foods will provide additional nutritional value, and the birds will love the extra treat!
Here’s more homemade suet recipes for feeding birds.
Give Woodpeckers Some Support
The larger woodpeckers need a place to put their tail when perched on a feeder and will be much more comfortable on a suet feeder with a tail prop. This will make them likely to spent more time on your feeder. Check out the best suet feeders for winter birds.
Discourage Bully Birds
If you are having issues with too many starlings at your suet, try using an upside down suet feeder. Woodpeckers, chickadees, nuthatches, and many others have no problem hanging upside down, but the starlings have much more trouble doing it. It won’t completely stop the starlings, but it will decrease the amount of suet they are eating. Here’s more tips to deal with bully birds at your feeders.
Ruby-Throated Hummingbirds
The only species regularly spotted in the eastern half of the United States, ruby-throated hummingbirds are on the move by late August. They are usually gone from their nesting grounds by the end of October. Some fly more than 3,000 miles, from Minnesota and Canada to Costa Rica. That’s quite a feat for a bird that weighs less than 4 grams.
Psst—here’s why you should keep feeders up for late migrating fall hummingbirds.
Because flying over a large body of water means no stopping to rest, the Gulf of Mexico is a very challenging barrier for many eastern birds. Some species go thousands of miles out of their way to fly around the Gulf, but some ruby-throats fly straight over it to Central America. It takes ruby-throats about 18 hours to make the journey, a lot faster than if they had taken a detour along the coast.
Before they take off on their solitary flights, they fuel up and put on weight. If they get tired en route, sometimes they rest on boats. You might spot some of these travelers if you visit the Gulf Coast in September or March. You won’t see them again until May in the northern states and Canada.
Western Hummingbirds
Rufous hummingbirds have one of the longest migratory journeys for birds of their size. Some individual rufous hummingbirds migrate from Alaska to Mexico—about 4,000 miles! Some rufous are now wintering in southeastern coastal states like Alabama and Florida. This species typically migrates to and from Mexico. Check out expert tips to attract hummingbirds in winter.
Calliope hummingbirds also travel long distances during migration, traveling as far north as Canada for breeding and wintering in Mexico. And several other types of western hummingbirds, including broad-taileds and black-chinned, sometimes show up in the Gulf States in fall and winter. However, most spend the winter in Mexico.
Anna’s hummingbirds stick around along the Pacific Coast all year, even through the winter. Learn how hummingbirds survive snow and cold weather.
Is Peanut Butter Safe for Birds to Eat?
“What type of peanut butter should I feed to birds?” asks Beth Mucci of Swanzey, New Hampshire.
Peanut butter is a good high-protein food for birds, and they can eat any of the same types humans do. If you’re buying it specifically for birds, look for natural or organic types with the fewest additives. Try offering crunchy peanut butter for an extra nutty treat. It’s best to avoid low-fat varieties, which may not have as much nutritional value for the birds.
If you offer peanut butter stuffed into holes in a log-type feeder, be sure to clean it out thoroughly before refilling it so mold won’t grow on the remains of older contents. Learn how to clean bird feeders.
Did you know it’s a myth that birds will choke on peanut butter? Go ahead and keep it in your homemade suet mix. You can also smear peanut butter on tree bark, or slather pine cones in peanut butter and dip them in bird seed. Woodpeckers, nuthatches and blue jays love to eat peanut butter.
Next, check out 10 foods you aren’t feeding birds yet.
Dahlias rank among the most delightful of garden surprises. A brown potato-like tuber erupts into a flower factory on a stalk, staging a months-long bloom show.
“Dahlias give you a larger variety of shapes, sizes and colors than other types of flowers,” says Nicholas Gitts, whose family owns Swan Island Dahlias in Canby, Oregon. Swan Island is the largest dahlia grower in the United States. “Dahlias also give you armloads of flowers over their blooming time—from late July through frost for most climates.”
Choose from lofty dahlias standing 5 feet or taller, or downsize with 12-inch dwarf types. Flower head sizes range from a dainty 2 inches across to the dinnerplate blooms that are nearly a foot wide. The flowers come with their own classifications, too: ball, pompon, cactus, anemone, collarette, single, peony, orchid, waterlily and dinnerplate, to name a few. You’ll find shades of red, yellow, white, bronze, purple and more. Some even have desirable dark foliage.
Check out gorgeous new dahlias gardeners will love.
Are Dahlias Perennials?
Despite fabulous attributes, dahlias seem daunting. “I think the number one reason people don’t grow dahlias is they think they have to dig and store the tubers at the end of the growing season,” Nicholas says.
Digging and storing is not complicated, but the easiest way to skip the step is to simply treat dahlias as annuals, leaving the tubers in the ground in cold climates to decompose. In Zones 8 or warmer, they are perennials. Just add winter cover and keep them in the ground.
Psst—this is the difference between annuals and perennials.
“Shorter-to-medium-height, early blooming dahlias are perfect plants for beginners,” Nicholas says, “because they provide quick results with less staking.” His suggestions include Jitterbug, a 3-foot dahlia with salmon petals and yellow highlights on a 2-inch bloom, and Touche, a 3-foot-tall plant with strong stems and 4-inch salmon-and-lavender semi-cactus blossoms.
Learn how to overwinter dahlias.
How to Grow Dahlias
For success, plant dahlias after all threat of frost has passed in regular garden soil that gets at least 8 hours of direct sun per day. Stake dahlias that grow taller than 3 feet using rods, cages or whatever you have on hand. Water deeply three times a week, depending on your soil. “They love lots of deep water during the growing season,” Nicholas says. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers, and choose one where the first number (indicating nitrogen) is half the other two numbers listed. Apply once a month.
It may seem cruel, but you will get shorter, bushier plants with better stems by pinching or cutting the center shoot just above the third set of leaves or when dahlias reach 18 to 20 inches tall.
The most common dahlia pests include slugs, snails, earwigs, cucumber beetles, spider mites and mildew. Combat them by choosing any product that’s safe enough to use on vegetable plants.
Add Dahlias to Bouquets
For arrangements, it’s best to cut stems of fully opened flowers in the cool of the morning, but you can snip them any time. Nicholas recommends placing cut stems into 2 to 3 inches of very hot (160 to 180 degrees) water in a metal container and then letting the stems and water cool for an hour. “This will set your blooms and make your flowers last for four to six days,” he says. Change the water in the vase daily, and use a flower preservative to promote longevity.
Even when not cutting blooms for bouquets, snipping the stems of dahlias produces more flowers and a fuller plant. Remove any browning flower heads to promote rebloom.
It’s easy to design with dahlias. Just plant them anywhere you’d like a punch of color. “Check the height of the dahlia you’re going to plant to determine if you should plant it in the front or the back of your landscape beds,” Nicholas advises, and enjoy the splashes of color though the first frost.
Discover our top 10 favorite flowers for a cutting garden.
